Flors seques pattern

No sempre quan improvitzo un patró agafo notes donat que moltes vegades el disseny acaba sortint com a conseqüència de posar en pràctica la tècnica de la prova-error, però he decidit repassar les meves notes manuscrites i intentar compartir amb vosaltres aquells que he pogut desxifrar ;)

Aquí teniu el patró del coll Flors seques en castellà per descarregar i la referència a Ravelry.

No siempre cuando improvizo un patrón tomo notas puesto que muchas veces el diseño acaba saliendo como consecuencia de poner en práctica la técnica de la prueba-error, pero he decidido repasar mis notas manuscritas e intentar compartir con vosotros aquellos que he podido descifrar ;)

Aquí tenéis el patrón del cuello Flors seques en castellano para descargar y la referencia a Ravelry.

Mini adult socks pattern

Després de tant de temps no sé ni si us enrecordareu d'aquests mitjonets de bebé que vaig fer. En el seu moment vaig dir que penjaria el patró i us he tingut esperant més d'un any. Podeu baixar el patró a través d'aquest link o des de Ravelry.

Después de tanto tiempo no sé si os acordaréis de estos calcetines de bebé que tejí. En su momento dije que colgaría el patrón y os he tenido más de un año esperando. Podéis bajarlo a través de este link o desde Ravelry.

Patrón aftereight

El patrón está escrito en inglés. He intentado escribirlo en castellano pero no estoy acostumbrada a los nombres de puntos y abreviaciones y me he hecho un lio! a ver si con más calma finalmente puedo hacerlo...

English Version.

Size: S. I've got a small hand but you can adapt the pattern adding a multiple of 4 stitches. Then you will have to change k5 for k6 in round 15.
Needles: 3.5mm. 4'00mm, 4,5mm
Yarn: aran weight yarn. I used Debbie Bliss Cashmerino aran (B) (1/2 skein) and Mondial Vai (G) between 3/4 and a whole skein).
Gauge: 18 st X 10 cm in stockinette stitch.

With main color (G) and 3,5mm needles CO 40 st, using tubular cast on for ribbing (if you want you can use long tail cast on but then you will need 4'00mm needles).

Join to work in round, change to 4'00mm needles and knit 14 rounds in 1x1 ribbing. You should start with a purl stitch.

R15: Change to brown (B) and to 4,5mm needles.*kfb, k5, s2-k1-psso, k5, kfb, kfb, s2-k1-psso, kfb* repeat one time.
R16: k
R17: Change to green (G). Repeat R15.
R18:K
R 19: Change to B. Repeat 15.
R20: K
R21: Change to G. Repeat 15.
R22: k to 3 latest stitches, M1r, k1, M1l, k2.
R23: Change to B. kfb, k5, s2-k1-psso, k5, kfb, kfb, k1, s2-k1-psso, k1, kfb, kfb, k5, s2-k1-psso, k5, kfb, kfb, s2-k1-psso, kfb.
R24: K.
R25: Change to G: kfb, k5, s2-k1-psso, k5, kfb, kfb, k1, s2-k1-psso, k1, kfb, kfb, k5, s2-k1-psso, k5, kfb, kfb, s2-k1-psso, kfb.
R26: k to 4 latest stitches, M1r, k1, M1l, k3.
R27: Change to B. kfb, k5, s2-k1-psso, k5, kfb, kfb, k2, s2-k1-psso, k2, kfb, kfb, k5, s2-k1-psso, k5, kfb, kfb, s2-k1-psso, kfb.
R28: K
R29: Change to G: kfb, k5, s2-k1-psso, k5, kfb, kfb, k2, s2-k1-psso, k2, kfb, kfb, k5, s2-k1-psso, k5, kfb, kfb, s2-k1-psso, kfb.
R30: k to 5 latest stitches, M1r, k1, M1l, k4.
R31: Change to B. kfb, k5, s2-k1-psso, k5, kfb, kfb, k3, s2-k1-psso, k3, kfb, kfb, k5, s2-k1-psso, k5, kfb, kfb, s2-k1-psso, kfb.
R32: k35, punt next 11 st in waste yarn. CO 5 st.
R33, 34: repeat rounds 21, 22.
R35, 36, 37, 38: repeat rounds 19 to 22.
R39, 40, 41, 42: repeat rounds 19 to 22.
R43, 44: repeat rounds 19, 20. Cut yarn.
R45-52: repeat rounds 21-22 4 times.

Decreases:

R53: repeat round 21.
R54: k6, s2-k1-psso, k to the end of needle 1. Repeat.
R55: *Kfb, k4, s2-k1-psso, k4, kfb* repeat.
R56: k5, s2-k1-psso, k to the end of needle 1. Repeat.
R57: *Kfb, k3, s2-k1-psso, k3, kfb* repeat.
R58: k4, s2-k1-psso, k to the end of needle 1. Repeat.
R59: *Kfb, k2, s2-k1-psso, k2, kfb* repeat.
R60: k3, s2-k1-psso, k to the end of needle 1. Repeat.
R61: *Kfb, k1, s2-k1-psso, k1, kfb* repeat.
R62: k2, s2-k1-psso, k to the end of needle 1. Repeat.
R63: *Kfb, s2-k1-psso, kfb* repeat.
R64: k1, s2-k1-psso, k2, s2-k1-psso, k1. Repeat. Total 12 st. Break yarn. Use a tapestry needle to pass yarn threat througt these 12 stitches, pull.

Thump:

With B yarn. k11, pick up and k 5 st.
Change to G. k 1 round.
R3: k2tog, k7, ssk, k5.
k 11 rounds more.
R15: k2tog, k3, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k2.
R16: k
R17: k2tog, k2, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k1.
R18: k.
R19: k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1, k2tog. Break yarn. Pass yarn threat througt the stitches left. Pull yarn.

Aftereight

Quan vaig aprendre a teixir en rodó la primera cosa que vaig fer van ser uns mitons. Després en van arribar uns quants més i aquesta tardor hi he tornat. Vaig decidir aprofitar la llana que m'havia sobrat del koolhaas i del Verity i fer alguna cosa últil i, després d'una mica d'improvització i de provar algunes tècniques noves, aquí teniu el resultat. El patró properament.

When I learnt to knit in round, the first project I did was a pair of mittens. Latter I knit some more and this Autumn to don't break with the tradition I've done another pair. When I knited koolhas and Verity I had some yarn left that I've decided to use for this project (I hate to have nice yarn left) and after improvising a bit and trying some new techniques, here you are my new pair of mittens. I will try to post the pattern in the following days...

Impressionist socks' pattern.

Yarn: KPPPM. 1 skein (9 inches lengh foot).
Needles: 2'75 mm circulars.
Gauge: 28 = 10 cm.

Lace pattern: Bead stitch. Multiple of 7 stitches.
R1: K1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1.
R2: k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk.
R3: k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1.
R4: k2, yo, s1-k2tog-psso, yo, k2.

Using figure 8 cast-on, cast on 8 stitches in each needle. Follow instructions till you have increased to 28 stitches in each needle.

Foot:

knit 2 rounds.
Start with lace pattern. Repeat it 4 times. K all stitches of second needle. Knit rows 2 to 4 following the same instructions. Repeat it for 14 times more or the number of times you need to optain the desidered lengh (heel measures aproximately 2 inches)

Heel:

Use short rows method as follow:

R1: knit till last stitch, T&W (you should slip the stitch you have just wrapped back to the left needle).
R2: purl to last stitch, T&W.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 till you have eight unwrapped stitches, finishing with a purlwise row.
Next row 1: knit till the first wrapped stitch, pick up the wrap and knit it together with the stitch it was wrapping, T&W.
R2; purl till the first wrapped stitch, pick up the wrap and ssp it with the stitch it was wrapping, T&W.
R3: knit till the first doble wrapped stitch, pick up both wraps and k all them together with the stitch, T&W.
R4: purl till the first doble wrapped stitch, pick up both wraps and sssp all them with the stitch, T&W.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 till there is only one doble wrapped stitch left at each side.
Next row: knit till the last doble wrapped stitch, pick up both wraps and k all them together with the stitch, T&W.
R20: yo backwards, purl till the last doble wrapped stitch, pick up both wraps and sssp all them with the stitch, T&W.
R21: (joining round) yo, k all stitches, slip yo you previosly did to the other needle and knit it together with first stitch (you will be on the first row of the lace pattern), continue with lace pattern, as follow: k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, *k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1* (repeat two times), k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, slip next stitch to the second needle and k it toghether with the yo. Slip the new stitch back to the first needle, repeat *k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1* four times.
R22-24: knit 8 repeats of row two lace pattern.
Repeat lace pattern twice.

Picot hem:

k 5 rounds.
Next round: k2tog, yo.
k5 rounds.
Bind off: sew every stitch with the bump that every stitch forms on the ws corresponding to the first k round.

And...that's all!

Tomato or pepper?

Finally I decided to knit a pair of socks with the yarn left from the Tomato hat. As they are thought to go with the Tomato Hat they should be named tomato socks, but I think that they look more like a pepper than a tomato! ;)

I knitted them in two or three hours. Yarn is thick, so...I only had to cast on 24 stitches! In my opinion they can be improved but till then if someone wants the pattern...here you are:

Yarn: Katia Merino 100%. 2 skeins, red and green. For a pair of socks you will use aproximately 15% of both skeins.

Needles: 3mm and 3.5 mm. Gauge: 24 x 36 = 10 cm, in 3.5 needles. With crochet cast on, cast on 24 stitches.

R1: With 3mm needles and green yarn, k. Join, to work in round.
R2-4: k. R5: *yo, k2tog*, repeat.
R6-9: Change to 3.5 needles. k.
R10: (picot helm) k2tog each stitch with it's corresponding from the provisional cast on.
R11-12: k.
R13: *k5, k1*, repeat.
R14: *k4, k2*, repeat.
R15: *k3, k3*, repeat.
R16: *k2, k4*, repeat.
R17-18: *k1, k5*, repeat.
R19-23: k.
R24 (heel): k11, turn.
R25: yo-b, p10, turn.
R26: yo, k9, turn.
R27: yo-b, p8, turn.
R28: yo, k7, turn.
R29: yo-b, p6, turn.
R30: yo, k6, k2tog (first stitch in left needle will be a yo. k2tog this yo with next stitch). Turn
R31: yo-b, p7, ssp (first stitch in left needle will be a yo. ssp this yo with next stitch). Turn
Repeat rows 30 and 31, 2 more times.
R36: In this row we are going to work in round again. yo, k12, ssk the yo with next stitch, k10, k next stitch tog with de yo you did in the previous round.
R37-49: k
R50: ssk, k10, k2tog, ssk, k10, k2tog.
R51: k.
R52: ssk, k8, k2tog, ssk, k8, k2tog.
R53: k.
R54: ssk, k6, k2tog, ssk, k6, k2tog.
Graft.